The (61) bespoke tailors I’ve recognized

The (61) bespoke tailors I’ve recognized

 

This text has been up to date each 4 years for the previous 12 years. It was initially written in 2012, and has had new variations in 2016, 2020 and now 2024. 

The variety of bespoke tailors we now have tried and coated has elevated, however the development peaked someplace within the center. Between 2016 and 2020 there have been 18 added to the checklist; this latest model provides six, with some extra coming quickly. 

These six are:

  • Taillour, the favored tailoring home arrange by Fred Nieddu
  • Assisi, considered one of my actual favourites and based mostly in Korea
  • Luca Museo, additionally from Korea
  • B&Tailor, whom we had coated beforehand however solely via a short-lived cooperation with a European tailor
  • Vittorio Salino, the ex-head cutter of Liverano in Florence
  • And Shibumi, which is the oldest having been coated simply after the checklist was final up to date

Within the offing are J Mueser’s bespoke providing (benchmade in New York) and the final couple of Koreans.

 

 

A lot of the names folks will likely be interested by have already been coated. The purpose of this text is to be a reference for all of these – a technique to dip into our earlier protection, and likewise ask any new questions and feedback you will have over which one to decide on. 

There are hyperlinks in all of the descriptions to posts elsewhere on the location, whereas the names of the tailors themselves are hyperlinked to their ‘model’ web page, the place you could find all posts listed.

There at the moment are 61 tailors, which is simply too many by anybody’s requirements. I wouldn’t advocate that anybody pursue this course with bespoke, or preserve this variety of tailors. One to 3 is extra prefer it (see the submit ‘What number of tailors do you want?‘).

Anybody that want to see many of those tailors’ cuts analysed, with constant measurements, ought to see the Information to Tailors Kinds. And if you need a extra focused article on who my favorite tailors are, see right here. 

Keep in mind there may be additionally a separate checklist for made-to-measure, which I’ll replace later within the yr too. 

 

UNITED KINGDOM

Anderson & Sheppard

The largest exponent of the ‘drape reduce’, with gentle shoulders and fullness of material within the chest and again. Along with a carefully reduce waist, this provides the phantasm of an even bigger chest and could be very snug. Some suppose that the gentle shoulders are unflattering. It’s among the many cheaper homes on the Row, and I significantly just like the double-breasted type because it has a comparatively broad lapel with loads of stomach. My fits from A&S had been all reduce by John Hitchcock, who has now retired.

 

Benson & Clegg / Oliver Cross

Benson & Clegg weren’t largely recognized for his or her bespoke division, with a stronger status for his or her buttons, cufflinks and braces (they maintain the royal warrant to Prince Charles for such issues). That modified when Meyer & Mortimer cutter Oliver Cross joined the crew, and Oliver made me a green-flannel go well with. His type is English structured with some drape – although additionally with an openness to adapt the make and reduce. Since that go well with, Benson have largely shut down sadly, however Oliver Cross arrange on his personal – as ‘Ollie’s

 

Chittleborough & Morgan

One of many best end of any English tailors, studying from the French of their buttonholes amongst different issues, Chittleborough was based by two cutters from the legendary Tommy Nutter store, the place Edward Sexton was the pinnacle cutter. Roy Chittleborough is retired, however Joe Morgan carries on slicing Sixties-inspired fits with giant lapels, nipped waists and powerful shoulders. My navy go well with may be discovered right here.

 

Dege & Skinner

A extremely conventional Savile Row tailor with a wealthy navy historical past, Dege cuts a strong-shouldered, longer jacket. Nonetheless household owned, they’ve been remarkably constant as different homes reminiscent of Huntsman have modified look or possession over time. Cutter Nick De’Ath made me an outstanding tobacco-linen go well with. And though the upper rise of the trousers didn’t fairly work out the primary time, he was accommodating on a number of different factors. We subsequently made an unstructured summer season jacket as nicely. 

 

Edward Sexton 

Edward sadly handed away just lately, however the type and home he based are nonetheless going sturdy. Edward made me a improbable double-breasted flannel go well with and a lengthy gray overcoat. The previous has proved very helpful and the latter additionally, after it was shortened moderately (by 4 inches) a yr after making. Sexton additionally provide an offshore service which is partly made in China, which we reviewed right here. 

 

Gieves & Hawkes (Davide Taub)  

Davide Taub, of whose type I’m an enormous fan, is the pinnacle cutter at Gieves. He educated at Maurice Sedwell amongst different locations and tends in the direction of a robust shoulder and silhouette. He’s additionally very progressive, and has made a number of very unique and trendy items for me, together with my pea coat, leather-based jacket and gilet. For the aim of this checklist, nevertheless, essentially the most fascinating piece is this inexperienced linen go well with, which is placing for being mild in building but sharp in look.

 

Graham Browne

A standard Metropolis tailor in London. This implies not making to the identical customary as Savile Row, however doing the necessary issues of slicing by hand and dealing up a private paper sample. Graham Browne is nice worth as as outcome, and I’ve had many issues made over time, together with my first bespoke go well with in London. (One other tailor, Choppin & Lodge, was an offshoot of Graham Browne however not exists. That crew, along with Dan McAngus from Graham Browne, runs MacAngus & Wainwright.)

 

Henry Poole 

Generally known as the based of Savile Row, the Poole type is extra reasonable and versatile than both A&S or Huntsman. The essential reduce is powerful and English, nevertheless, simply with barely much less padding and construction within the shoulder and chest than Huntsman. I had a double-breasted Prince of Wales go well with made, which has been quietly excellent. It will get extra compliments than virtually the rest, but it’s conservative in every little thing by the fabric. (Subsequent to that submit, I’ve had two extra buttons added on the high, and swapped the buttons for brown horn moderately than gray.)

 

Huntsman 

The other of Anderson & Sheppard in type, with sturdy, padded shoulders and a carefully reduce chest. Comparatively slim via the waist and with little skirt, it’s recognized for a one-button fastening. Most different English tailors reduce this conventional type, with slight variations. I preferred the searching go well with I had made by David Ward, although had some issues with the bi-swing again, because the vents stayed open and elastic was added inside to repair that.

 

Kathryn Sargent

Kathryn was once the pinnacle tailor at Gieves & Hawkes. Her type is, like Poole and others, a standard English navy reduce. My journey blazer and trousers had been reduce by Kathryn Sargent whereas she was at Gieves. She has since arrange her personal premises, and made a gorgeous tweed jacket for my spouse there, which mirrored her specific ability in ladies’s types.  

 

Kent and Haste

John Kent and Terry Haste work on Sackville Avenue. Terry was head cutter at Huntsman and his type could be very related; John tends to chop a barely smaller again and slimmer leg – sharper, in that means. John made my sample and I’ve two fits from it, the second reduce and fitted by Terry – therefore the distinction in types famous above.

 

Manning & Manning

Bryan Manning is an outdated tailor who used to work at Kilgour and has operated on his personal for a number of years, assembly purchasers at Holland & Sherry on Savile Row or in workrooms on Tottenham Court docket Street. He’s good worth for cash, however the high-twist summer season go well with he made me had some points, significantly across the ending.

 

Michael Browne

Michael is a younger, trendy cutter who deserves credit score for most of the good issues that occurred at Chittleborough & Morgan, earlier than he arrange on his personal. Michael’s type is analogous, however his mode of working – completely with out compromise, together with remaking each becoming himself – just isn’t. His purpose has been to provide the very best garment, it doesn’t matter what the fee. This implies that the gorgeous coat he made for me was very costly, however it makes Michael distinctive. 

 

PA Crowe 

A metropolis tailor, PA Crowe has a small store close to to St Paul’s cathedral. I labored close-by for a number of years and ultimately had a pair of brown flannel trousers made. The outcomes weren’t excellent, with the persistent subject I’ve of hole fronts and bulging rear inflicting the trousers to lose their sharpness too simply. 

 

 

Richard Anderson 

Richard was once the pinnacle cutter at Huntsman and his reduce is analogous, although with much less padding within the shoulder. One distinction is maybe a extra adventurous type; he makes jackets in denim, for instance, and wool jersey, and has his personal assortment of denims. Richard made me a tuxedo, single breasted with a shawl-collared waistcoat. It was slim and completely becoming, although my favorite half was the excellent trousers.

 

Richard James 

Ben Clarke at Richard James has been rising the bespoke aspect of the enterprise, which has its personal devoted premises on Clifford Avenue. Ben made a brown cashmere jacket for me, waistcoat and trousers, deviating from the conventional Richard James type considerably to make one thing barely softer and extra informal. The outcome was superb, each when it comes to match and end.

 

Steven Hitchcock

Son of A&S head cutter John Hitchcock, Steven was educated there and his type could be very related. He now lives exterior of London however has a workshop and appartment in Fitzrovia the place he sees prospects. Steven has made me a tweed jacket and moleskin trousers, a gorgeous pale-grey jacket from the Lamlana bunch, a improbable charcoal donegal jacket and a navy cashmere. I’d extremely advocate him for this type of tailoring.

   

Taillour

Arrange by Fred Nieddu, beforehand the pinnacle cutter at Timothy Everest, Taillour advantages from a excessive stage of Savile Row product and a way of favor that a variety of tailors can typically lack. Fred tends in the direction of a large shoulder and lapel, with little roping within the shoulders, however the entire is delicate and balanced. He travels extensively however relies in East London, close to Shoreditch. He has made me a suede belted jacket and brown chalkstripe go well with.

 

Thom Sweeney

A extra modern reduce than most on this checklist, Thom Sweeney began out providing a very quick jacket, slender sleeve and fitted waist. They’ve moderated their type over time, however it’s nonetheless the home that may really feel most like a contemporary designer model to most in London. They made me a navy checked jacket and twine trousers a number of years in the past, which match very nicely (although I considerably regretted the boldness of the windowpane examine). 

 

Timothy Everest

Tim is not providing bespoke tailoring, having exited his personal enterprise and now concerned with Gray Flannel on Chiltern Avenue. The beautiful bespoke operation on Elder Avenue did spawn Taillour although, coated elsewhere, and when it was open Tim made me a go well with and velvet jacket that had been each stable, however some minor points and poor type selections on my half. 

       

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury 

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has an especially good worth service referred to as Basic Bespoke that’s reduce in London however has a lot of the making achieved in a workshop they personal and have educated themselves in India. The result’s maybe the most effective place to begin for any full bespoke go well with. The total evaluate of the navy worsted go well with they made me may be seen right here. They’ve additionally change into my go-to location for bespoke trousers, provided that worth. 

 

JAPAN

Kenjiro Suzuki

Kenjiro just lately moved again to Japan, having been based mostly in France for a very long time below his personal identify, and former to that the pinnacle cutter at Smalto (the opposite huge identify in Paris after Cifonelli and Camps de Luca). His type is much like the opposite French makers, with little private touches like the quantity of ironing to form the leg of the trouser. Kenjiro made me a gorgeous navy cotton go well with. Now we have coated different Japanese tailors (right here) however not had something made by them. 

 

SOUTH KOREA

Assisi

I used to be very impressed after I visited Korea in 2023 to see the craftsmen there, and Assisi had been in all probability the one which impressed me most. Comparatively younger, they’ve a gorgeous sense of favor that tends in the direction of the fuller, late 80s or 90s type, however can reduce something. And the execution of the tailoring was improbable. The one factor they’ll typically lack is trimmings reminiscent of buttons, as these should be imported. They journey to New York for trunk exhibits, and have made me a tweed jacket and a light-grey go well with.

 

B&Tailor

B&Tailor had been the primary well-known Korean tailor, and several other of the homes right now have individuals who began there. They’re additionally thebiggest. Chad Park leads the home, along with his father overseeing the making. He has an amazing sense of color and elegance, although the informal clothes is rather less traditional and to not my style. Chad made me an outstanding double-breasted overcoat

 

B&Tailor/Robin Petterson

That is included extra only for the document, because the service not exists. However for some time B&Tailor labored in Europe via a Swedish agent, serving to serve all those that admired the Korean work from afar. Sadly that didn’t work out; my expertise was coated right here.

 

 

Luca Museo 

Luca Museo’s type just isn’t that dissimilar to the opposite Koreans coated right here, however it does lead in the direction of the extra tonal and maybe bigger in reduce. See my evaluate of the navy three-piece go well with they made me right here for some illustration of that. They’re additionally as progressive as the opposite tailors, and have their very own very good knitwear line.

 

FRANCE

Cifonelli 

The largest of the Parisian tailors, the Cifonelli reduce is characterised by a light-weight building however a energy of form achieved by a roped shoulder and slim waist. Gorgeous ending on the buttonholes, trousers and linings. The Cifonelli designs aren’t all the time my style, however the workmanship is among the many finest on this planet. I’ve made a number of issues with them over time, beginning with a tweed jacket. The most effective have been two overcoats, nevertheless, one navy and one brown. 

 

Camps de Luca 

Camps de Luca is a small however no much less effective Parisian tailor, and made me a gorgeous gray two-piece go well with with their attribute closed notch on the lapel and small Milanese buttonhole. Barely sq. of shoulder, with a fantastically made trouser and beautiful detailing, they rival Cifonelli in most departments. Though they’ll appear extra traditional than Cifonelli, they do additionally make suede and leather-based items, and a few uncommon jackets for decent climate.

 

ITALY

Caliendo

A small, second-generation tailor in Naples. Elia Caliendo is the cutter and his father nonetheless does a number of the tailoring work. Neapolitan type is pretty constant, with self-lined jackets within the foreparts, very mild building, shirt shoulders and people curving pockets. The largest distinction between them is high quality of ending and match, and Elia is nice on each. He visits London each month or so, which makes him dearer than some. I’ve had a summer season jacket a Everlasting Type tweed jacket and several other different issues made by Elia.  

 

Cerrato

A Neapolitan trouser maker with a superb status – and making trousers for a number of the different Neapolitan tailoring homes – Marco Cerrato has began to increase extra overseas along with his brother in London dealing with a variety of commissions. Marco has made me a number of pairs of trousers, together with inexperienced cottons and pale-grey cavalry twills. Of the three Neapolitan trouser makers listed right here, I’ve had essentially the most constant optimistic expertise with them.

 

Ciardi

Renato Ciardi was one of many best-known cutters in Naples, and his sons have admirably carried on his work. Enzo now travels to London, and has change into considered one of my favorite tailors ever, for his character, reduce, and consistency. The reduce is extra conventional Neapolitan, which suggests barely longer and extra beneficiant within the physique and shoulder, whereas nonetheless being gentle. My tweed jacket specifically was excellent.

 

Cornacchia

Most areas of Italy have a bespoke tailor or two left, in contrast to most different elements of the world, together with England. Within the Puglia space within the south-east, I visited a number of and tried out Nicola Cornacchia, who was really helpful to me by Vitale Barberis Canonico. The sunshine-grey high-twist go well with they made me was not world class, however it was superb, and I’d advocate them to anybody that discover themselves within the space. 

 

Dalcuore

Sartoria Dalcuore are a barely bigger tailor in Naples, with a workshop supplying able to put on clothes to locations like China and Japan, alongside conventional bespoke. They made me a brown Crispaire go well with for the summer season amongst different issues, which was fantastically fitted and in a traditional Neapolitan type – solely missing a few particulars like match across the trousers that maybe might have been corrected at a second becoming.

 

Ettore de Cesare

Ettore is a lesser-known Neapolitan tailor, however really with a big workshop and worldwide consumer base. He tends to chop a shorter, closer-fitting jacket, like many fashionable tailors, and I’ve needed to struggle again in opposition to that tendency. However he’s a really proficient cutter, and achieved nice match on the hopsack jacket and coat he made for me. Additionally works frequently in suede and leather-based. 

 

Ferdinando Caraceni 

Ferdinando Caraceni, considered one of 4 outfits doing bespoke in Milan and Rome below the Caraceni identify, made me a cashmere herringbone jacket. A fantastically made piece, it was noticeably extra formal than different Italians I had tried – extra an unstructured various to a Row go well with than a rival to Neapolitan casualness. Nicoletta Caraceni is the charismatic head of the home, Ferdinando’s daughter. The subsequent piece, a double-breasted cotton jacket, was even higher. Sadly, the home closed this yr. 

 

Formosa

My expertise with Formosa in Naples was not an excellent one – however as with different destructive experiences, it’s arduous to inform how a lot this needs to be a conclusion in regards to the tailoring home as a complete. Gennaro wished to attempt utilizing two youthful cutters for my jacket, whom he was coaching to take over from the senior cutter. What they made was not a superb match, and the following try and right it by the senior crew was not enough. I finally gave up on the jacket. 

 

Gaetano Aloisio

One of many largest names in Romain tailoring, Gaetano has a robust worldwide following. I haven’t had any fits made by him, however US author Bruce Boyer penned a stunning piece for Everlasting Type on his experiences, which may be seen right here. His type is extra much like the northern tailors in Italy, however with a barely softer shoulder expression than both.  

 

Granata

Biagio Granata is a younger cutter who arrange his personal operation a number of years in the past. Sadly, whereas clearly a superb cutter, he suffered from a scarcity of consistency in visits to London, in execution of types, and a scarcity of English. The go well with he made for me had an honest jacket, however I by no means noticed the trousers. The tweed jacket he made to enhance the state of affairs within the meantime, was a superb match within the high half, however had gaping vents. Exhausting to advocate on that foundation. 

 

Liverano & Liverano

The most effective-known tailor in Florence, Antonio Liverano cuts a brief jacket and slim trousers. The home is sort of modern in that respect, and has been popularised by the assist of The Armoury in New York and Hong Kong. Antonio made me a purple jacket, which was fantastically executed – and a superb instance of a tailor guiding successfully on fabric. Liverano could be very costly although; cutters reminiscent of Vittorio Salino which have left the home provide higher worth for cash. 

 

Musella Dembech  

Gianfrancesco Musella was one of many younger tailors I dropped at our Symposium occasion in Florence, and nobody higher deserved the invitation. He’s each extremely expert and genuinely progressive, bringing totally different flavours to the Milanese type. Gianfrancesco made me a navy cotton go well with, in the identical light-weight cotton as my brown Caliendo. It has placing lapels that I really like, and nice ending. I just like the type of the single-breasted jackets much less.

 

Panico

Panico is without doubt one of the greats of Neapolitan tailoring, and significantly recognized for his huge double-breasted lapels and cozy reduce. I went for a grey-flannel go well with, and actually preferred the type, although single-breasted. That consolation was additionally placing, with some form via the waist on the entrance, however just about no suppression within the again. Antonio Panico has since retired nevertheless, and I’ve no expertise of the home since. 

 

Pasinato

Massimo Pasinato is a small tailor within the Italian city of Vicenza. He is an effective cutter, and embraces expertise when it could possibly assist him within the becoming course of, for instance. He made me a pleasant cavalry-twill go well with, and likewise presents some made-to-measure on his travels. He has been travelling frequently to London, and if you’re after a gentle Italian go well with that is excellent worth, much like Vergallo, he’s price contemplating. 

 

Pirozzi 

Nunzio Pirozzi runs a extremely regarded tailoring home in Naples, and travels to London, New York and Asia. He made me a tan corduroy go well with – similar to an Anderson & Sheppard DB that I really like, however single breasted and within the informal Neapolitan type. The outcome was superb when it comes to match and execution, however the type was a bit too quick and shut. A subsequent jacket and go well with have been extra my type, and I extremely advocate the household. 

 

Pommella

Lino Pommella was once the pinnacle trouser cutter at Rubinacci till, as typically appears to occur with Rubinacci cutters, he left to arrange on his personal. On this case, it was with the assistance of filmmaker Gianluca Migliarotti, and the 2 have established one thing of a model for high-end trousers – doing trunk exhibits with The Armoury amongst different locations.  

 

Rubinacci 

The largest identify in Naples. An fascinating tackle Neapolitan type, with barely extra closed fronts and typically padding via the ends of the shoulders. Rubinacci’s energy is its styling, moderately than execution or worth. The cashmere Donegal jacket I had created from an outdated 70s fabric was good, with an amazing make and okay match. But it surely was Luca’s advice of the bronze-green lining that made it for me.

 

Salvatore Ambrosi 

Salvatore Ambrosi is definitely the most effective recognized trouser maker, travelling to numerous cities and dealing with retailers like Brycelands. Salva makes to a really excessive stage, higher than most Neapolitans, with beautiful hand detailing. He additionally has type, which helps moderately with commissions. My expertise was fairly inconsistent although, with a number of errors alongside the way in which.  

 

Shibumi

Shibumi is generally a tie firm, based by Benedikt Fries and based mostly in Florence. I’d extremely advocate their ties – they all the time appeared to tie the right knot – however he additionally used to run a well-priced bespoke providing, which Benedikt fitted however was made by an area tailor. Since Benedikt moved to Japan the service is not provided, however he made me a barely boldly checked go well with right here.

 

Solito 

One of many largest names in Neapolitan tailoring. Gennaro Solito is a good cutter; he speaks no English however his son, Luigi, does. Their type is typical Neapolitan though they do numerous common (not shirt) shoulders too. Luigi has made me a number of jackets since he began visiting London with Neapolitan shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, together with the primary – a  light-weight inexperienced sports activities jacket. The make hasn’t all the time been nice, with a number of issues needing repairs, however he’s additionally somewhat cheaper than others. 

 

Vergallo

A neighborhood tailor from the city of Varese, north of Milan, Vergallo has change into an even bigger identify in tailoring since cutter Gianni Cleopazzo started travelling to London. A north Italian type, so softer than English however sharper than the Neapolitans, Vergallo made me a navy cashmere go well with and houndstooth jacket. There may be an openness on type and reduce; not the very best stage of make amongst Italians, however good worth. 

 

Vestrucci / Stefano Bemer

Loris Vestrucci was a retired tailor, introduced out of hiding by Tomasso Melani and Tomasso Capozzoli of Stefano Bemer sneakers, to be able to create a brand new bespoke tailoring home. Vestrucci has a declare to make the unique Florentine go well with, and his tailoring is gentle however elegant, with rounded hips and comparatively closed quarters. He made me a charcoal-flannel go well with however the operation has shrunk since, focusing extra on MTM and going below the Bemer identify.

 

Vittorio Salino

Vittorio Salino is a Florence-based tailor who was once the pinnacle cutter at Liverano & Liverano. He makes a largely Florentine-style garment with a excessive stage of execution and a few nice private type (he’s a fan of classic clothes amongst different issues). For that type of tailoring I’d extremely advocate him. He made my a herringbone tweed jacket right here, which was excellent aside from somewhat huge within the waist. That has subsequently been slimmed down. 

 

Zizolfi

Ciro Zizolfi was launched to me by Gianluca Migliarotti, the filmmaker and long-time consumer. Ciro cuts a reasonably conventional Neapolitan jacket, which suggests a snug match, somewhat padding in shoulders, and general somewhat longer and squarer than others. The nice match of my dark-green tweed jacket may be see within the photos on that submit. 

 

SPAIN

Calvo de Mora 

The most effective of the three Spanish tailors I attempted, Calvo de Mora made a carefully fitted gray jacket, a self-backed gray donegal waistcoat, and inexperienced cotton trousers. The jacket was fairly shut via the skirt and gentle within the shoulder, though not as informal as a Neapolitan make. Sadly Calvo don’t journey to London or wherever else frequently. They’re the most costly of the Spanish tailors right here, maybe inevitably given the standard.

 

Langa 

Sastreria Langa are finest recognized for his or her shirtmaker, Mariano, who has a protracted and storied checklist of shoppers. The shirt he made was well-fitted, if fairly formal and stiff within the collar, with a great deal of handwork. The linen go well with reduce by Joaquin was a stunning piece, largely due to the color of the Scabal linen. The jacket itself might have been made higher and there was a difficulty with the shoulders – partly attributable to making an attempt to create a Neapolitan look.

 

Reillo 

Reillo is a small tailor – one cutter, Jose Maria, with some assist with making in the back of the store. Like Langa he’s good worth for cash, though the inexperienced cotton go well with that we made collectively suffered moderately within the shoulders. Partly, as with Langa, this was attributable to making an attempt to create a really gentle, Neapolitan-style jacket, which isn’t the pure type the Spanish tailors had been educated on.

 

HONG KONG

The Anthology

A crew based mostly in Hong Kong, Taipei and London, however utilizing a tailoring workshop in China. There have been many tailors over time which have relaunched and rebranded in Hong Kong, making use of younger tailoring lovers, however The Anthology is without doubt one of the finest. Trendy, with a beneficiant reduce and nice type (because of founder Buzz Tang). Some small hangovers from cheaper manufacturing, however good worth and a reduce that I significantly like and discover flattering. The Anthology crew made me a grey-herringbone tweed go well with.

 

E.Italian

Again within the days after I travelled to Hong Kong loads, and had much less cash, I attempted three or 4 totally different low-cost HK tailors. Edward Tam at E.Italian was the most effective, at round £300 for a go well with. That may have gone up now, and the reduce was moderately boxy however when you’re insistent, it may be a sensible choice for the value. Lower by hand and made by hand, with a becoming or two required. To not wherever close to the identical customary as bespoke elsewhere (attempt WW Chan or related for that) however not a rip-off 24-hour tailor both.

 

Prologue

Prologue is a Hong Kong store making in China – now in its personal workshop – with a superb, fashionable sense of favor. Just like The Anthology in that respect, however intentionally making at a barely decrease stage to be able to be as accessible as potential. Jerry and the Prologue crew have made me a inexperienced summer season jacket and a heavy glen-check winter one. 

 

WW Chan

One in all the best-known tailors in Hong Kong, and the one outdated identify that has actually tailored to the fashionable development of curiosity in bespoke – thanks in no small half to The Armoury. Additionally they make for Bryceland’s, nevertheless, and it was making an attempt the Bryceland’s reduce that made me fee a jacket from WW Chan. The outcome was superb, and I’d extremely advocate them. Additionally they do MTM via Bryceland’s which I’ve coated individually.

 

AMERICAS

Paolo Martorano

Paolo is a younger tailor in New York – a spot with a historic lack of resident tailors – however with numerous expertise in tailoring factories and retailers, having helped run the customized programme at Paul Stuart for a number of years. His pure type is for an English-derived, drapey reduce, however he’s additionally very versatile and enjoys making issues that match buyer concepts. He isn’t a cutter, however in contrast to many in New York, he does make use of a cutter and tailor, who work off-site. The 2 blazers he has made me have been excellent. 

 

Sr Francesco

Sr Francesco was an Italian tailor resident in Toronto, Canada. After engaged on his personal there for a few years, he was introduced into the brand new Leatherfoot retailer when it opened, and given his personal workshop. The shop promoted his tailoring, and took him on trunk exhibits to New York. Sadly the shop has subsequently closed. Sr Francesco made me a double-breasted donegal-tweed jacket, which I haven’t coated on the location as he’s not out there to prospects exterior Toronto. 

 

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